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06 — What sea and mountain raised

The Sea of Japan and the mountains of Abu
have long sustained Hagi's table.

Hagi lies with the Sea of Japan to its north and the Abu mountain range to its southeast, its castle town crossed by the Matsumoto and Hashimoto rivers as they flow out to sea — a land blessed with water and greenery. This natural environment has quietly sustained people's lives and economy behind the scenes of history.

Natsumikan fruit and blossoms — Natsumikan — the fruit that symbolizes Hagi

Revisited

Natsumikan — the fruit that sustained samurai livelihoods

As mentioned on the "Old Townscape" page, the natsumikan citrus that symbolizes Hagi is more than just a local specialty — it began being planted in samurai residence gardens from 1876 onward as a way to help support former samurai families who had lost their stipends after the Meiji Restoration. Chosen because it was easy and low-effort to grow, natsumikan was branded in 1889 as "Choshu Honba Hagi Natsumikan," and at its peak, production in the town of Hagi is said to have reached eight times the town's annual budget. The golden fruit hanging over earthen walls remains, to this day, the very image of Hagi's landscape.

The bounty of sea and mountain

What's on Hagi's table

Seafood tossed by the rough waves of the Sea of Japan, and cattle and poultry raised in the Abu mountains. Differing natural conditions give rise to a diverse range of ingredients.

Seafood

Swordtip Squid (Kensaki-ika)

A prized squid caught off the coast of Hagi. Its glass-clear, sweet flesh makes it a treasured Hagi delicacy, served as sashimi or dried overnight.

Seafood

Kintaro (Goatfish)

A fish characteristic of Hagi, caught by bottom trawling. Its mild white flesh is often used in deep-fried dishes and fish cakes.

Craft

Hagi Kamaboko

Fresh fish finished using the yakinuki (grilled, not steamed) method of fish-cake making — a processed-food tradition that made the most of the Sea of Japan's catch.

Meat

Kenran Beef

A branded beef raised amid the natural surroundings of the Abu mountain range. Prized for its fine-grained texture, often served as steak.

Meat

Choshu-dori

A branded free-range chicken raised in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Raised in spacious conditions, known for its rich, flavorful meat.

Fruit

Natsumikan

A citrus fruit that symbolizes Hagi, first cultivated as a livelihood project for former samurai families. Widely used in juice, jelly, and confectionery.

Noodle

Dondon

A soul food born from a long-established udon shop that opened in Hagi in 1972. Known for noodles that are silky yet chewy and a carefully drawn broth, it's a beloved staple across generations for people throughout Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Hagi's coastline, with clear water and a green island — The sea at Hagi (illustrative)Sea of Japan coast

The bounty of water and rice

Local sake — the brewing tradition of Hagi and Yamaguchi

A sake culture nurtured by the underground water flowing from the Abu mountain range and by rich rice-growing land. Yamaguchi Prefecture's sake, including Hagi's, has even been certified with a Geographical Indication (GI).

FukumusumeToyo BijinChomonkyoTakarabuneYachiyoAbu no Tsuru

Nature, alive in craft too

Hagi-yaki — the "seven transformations" born of earth and water

Hagi-yaki pottery is said to have begun with Korean potters brought to Hagi by the Mori clan following Toyotomi Hideyoshi's invasions of Korea. Because of the properties of the clay and glazes found around Hagi, the ware develops a distinctive character over years of use, as tea and sake gradually seep into it and change its appearance — a phenomenon known as the "seven transformations of Hagi." It is an example of the land's own natural materials crystallizing directly into a craft tradition.

A Hagi-yaki tea bowl with a pale loquat-colored glaze and white mottled patterning — A Hagi-yaki tea bowl (illustrative)Hagi-yaki

The Sea of Japan and the mountains of Abuhave long sustained Hagi's table.